It Seemed Like A Good Idea at the Time

A Month Late and a Euro Short

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sun, 22 Jun 2008 15:00:07 -0700

Historical facts, blah blah, things we did in the moment, blah blah, PICTURES!

Yeah, I suck at getting pictures posted and stories told. So in completely half ass fashion, here are just pictures from the remaining cities of the Mom & AmyH Eastern Europe Extravaganza.

First Vienna - full of big and beautiful buildings, just perfect for the seat of the Hapsburg Empire. It's hard to believe that Maria Theresa, considered the most powerful monarch of the throne, was pregnant for most of her years. 16 kids. Oof. Also home of a great coffee shop culture. And chocolate.

After experiencing the opulence and splendor that is the Budapest Opera House, we thought it wouldn't be right if we left Vienna without catching an opera at the Staatsoper. I paid far too much for scalper tix - but the show was incredible. Wagner's "Siegfried", the second installment of the Ring Cycle. It was a five hour show that went by in a flash. Intense story, amazing music and an atmosphere that was almost as overwhelming as the opera itself. We had little screens in front of us so we could follow along in English to the dialogue. MomH said it was like reading a suspense novel but with music. We were enthralled, waiting for the next line to come up. After three hours at the second intermission, I asked MomH if she wanted to go. "No! I want to see if he gets the girl!"

It was fantastic.

Now off to Prague, where I will not do the city justice if I slap together some of the pictures. But sometimes there is no justice in this world. (Also, because if I think about how much I want to say, I'll put it off for another day and then nothing will get done at all. Great is the enemy of the good and all that jazz...)

We enjoyed meandering on the Charles Bridge, mercifully sparse with tourists - travel on the off/shoulder seasons whenever possible!

To take ourselves further away from the tourist sections, we spent time on Nerudova street, poking around shops, pubs and taking pictures of door signs. Before Maria Theresa showed up on the Prague scene and created order throughout the city, houses were known by the symbols above the doors. This represented what took place inside, mostly alchemy enterprises, although some of the meanings have been lost to time.

One cannot leave Prague without a visit to the Old Jewish Quarter. We didn't go on the main tour of all the synagogues and the cemetery, but did go into the Old-New Synagogue, the oldest in Europe at 700 years. Also, you can't get a good view of the Jewish Cemetery without a pricey ticket. Or you can go into the super cheap Museum of Decorative Arts, use the restroom and happen to turn around and look out the open window that has an amazing view.

I will do this a little justice. According to my guide book at hand, "The crumbling image of teh Old Jewish Cemetery is a moving memorial to Prague's once considerable Jewish community. As this was one of the few burial sites available to Prague's Juews, when the plot was full, graves built up in layers - estimates put the number at about 200,000, with the oldest headstone dating from 1439. The final burial took place in 1787."

Whew. Now I'm spent. But I'll move on to Warsaw, the last spot of the trip. (I already did Krakow, check tags for "Vacation with Mom" or "Eastern Europe" to see all the other installments.)

Warsaw was 95% destroyed by the Nazis during WWII. Nothing remains of the Ghetto Uprising except old photos and a memorial. A year after the Ghetto Uprising was the Warsaw Uprising, which the Nazis didn't take kindly to, either. As the Soviets stood on the other side of the river and watched the destruction, the Nazis were hellbent to finally destroy the pesky Warsovians. The city has tried to rebuild the old section of town to resemble what it was like before the war. I think they did a pretty good job.

We did a walking tour through one of the major parks in Warsaw. It was beautiful and full of preening peacocks.

I hope you enjoyed the pictures. If you REALLY want to know more about something, just ask! If I come across some pics that I should have posted, I'll do a make-up post later. Promise. ;-)

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"It's for my blog friends!"

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Wed, 11 Jun 2008 21:02:20 -0700

That was a pretty common answer to MomH's frequent questions "Who is that for? Why are we going here? How do you know about that?" etc.

After meeting DKN, Cranky and the Cap'n in person, she knows my 'hood is a pretty good group of peeps. Even if Cap'n is a weirdo. :-P

I've been so late in getting up the rest of the pics so I thought I would put up some shots I took for you guys.

Here's an example from Prague:

"Oh! I need to take this for IG!"

"Who's IG?"

"One of my blog friends!"

"What's the significance of this?"

"She's Filipino and went home to Manila and ate roasted suckling pig for near every meal!"

For IG

Also in Prague, we took a little stroll to the Church of Our Lady Victorious on a pilgramage by proxy for Grumblebunny.

"Where are we going?"

"There's a church down here we need to see."

"Why?"

"It's important to one of my blog friends. Plus I need to buy her a little statue."

"What's so important about it?"

"I can't remember exactly, I'll figure it out when we get there."

Grumblebunny can tell you more, but people in desparate need of grace and hope are to pray to Infant Jesus. There were many people in solemn and intense prayer in the church, many crying. It was quite moving, even for a couple of Protestants. Thanks to Grumbles for pointing us in this direction!

This one goes in my sign photo collection, fo' shizzle. "I so have to post that on my blog."

So yeah, this was just for me - to share with you, of course. (Prague)

At least it's not Mad Cow

"Why in the world are you taking picture of chickens?"

"So Lauri can see what Hungarian chickens look like."

"I suppose she's another one of your blog friends?"

"Yep. And she went to Michigan State, so that makes her even cooler."

"Well that's good."

Back in Prague. This artist and his/her bright cats and dogs were on everything in almost every gift shop. I had a great coffee mug but MomH dropped the bag and it broke. She felt bad but I told her it was okay, she paid for it anyway.

"Then I'll take it home and glue it back together and use it myself."

Czech Colorful Critters

Oops, I meant to post the following in my earlier (WAY earlier) Budapest entry. Consider it a bonus pic.

Budapest Opera House Ceiling

These fall under "Silly Signs I Couldn't Pass Up". The store in the first pic was either hedging its bets or had an insecurity issue. As for the second sign, no I didn't go in to see what that was all about. My apologies.

On the very last day of touring, it was a cold and rainy day in Warsaw. We turned the corner into a large square and I squeed!

"HAHA! Bears Repeating!!11!! OMG! Must take a picture!"

"What???"

"Oh, it's a joke from my blogosphere."

That one took a little more explaining, but MomH is a good sport so she was helping me find a good shot. I can't exactly tell you what this was about, Bears of Peace or something like that. There was supposedly a bear from every country but we never did find the American bear. There were a lot and we were on the move, so I'm sure we just never got to him and it's not a commentary on habitat destruction. *shifty eyes*

Here's a picture from Krakow for all you wegetarians out there!

Bar Vega

"Bar" actually means it's an old-style cafeteria place. "Pod" usually meant sit down restaurant/alcohol bar. Just so you know and will be prepared when you go. Takes the funny out of it, though - doesn't it?

To wrap up this installment of pics, no AmyH post is complete without a:

Gratuitous Beer Shot

(In Krakow Market Square)

((hmm... that outfit isn't has flattering as I thought it was. Oh well, I was there and you weren't. Pffbbbbt. Now I feel better about myself again.))

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More Pics from Europe - Hungary Edition

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sun, 01 Jun 2008 15:14:23 -0700

I tried to take the back off my computer to see what was making that infernal racket. I didn't do anything except scare my computer into behaving, so I'm going to post pics while it's still moving faster than a melting glacier.

First - Budapest. A beautiful city, so much history we didn't even have a chance to explore. Mom and I went to the ballet one night, Prokofiev's Romeo & Juliet, at the Opera House. It was an incredible show - it's amazing how great your art can be when it's appreciated and heavily state-subsidized.

One day of our trip to Hungary was spent in the small town of Kecskemet where we met the mayor and were each given a small bottle of apricot brandy.

Then we were off to the Pusta, a grassland region of Hungary with a history of horesmanship and banditry. We were treated to a riding show of skills and trust between man and horse. Because the land was so flat, the highest point anywhere was on the back of a horse. Also, the horses were taught to lay down and be still to hide in the tall grasses. The rider in the fifth picture has 10 in hand, standing atop two horses, one foot on each. Pretty damn impressive as they were in full gallop at one point. Wow. That wasn't for battle - it was to show off.

Near the horse grounds was a small working, traditional farm.

Next up - Vienna. Stay tuned...

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Here's to MomH

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sat, 24 May 2008 20:17:48 -0700

Thanks for being such a great travel buddy!

Looking forward to the next adventure!

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Scenes of Krakow

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sat, 24 May 2008 19:53:46 -0700

We saw so much in our two weeks, it's hard to remember everything of significance. A new city, a new local guide, new facts and historical figures to hear about. By the end of the trip, it was hard to pay attention to centuries old royal alliances and battles.

So if you are looking for one of my travelogue posts, sorry. You don't want to read that much text anyway, do you? It doesn't help that I tossed the pages of my Rick Steves travel guide as I went, so I don't even have my cheat sheets.

With all my pics, I was trying to figure out a good way to piece together some posts. Instead of attempting perfection, I'll jump right in with a few shots of Krakow.

We started our day of touring at the Krakow Castle. One of the ancient kings - Krac was his name - killed a fire breathing dragon, making the town safe for the residents. That was pretty cool to know. There are caves under the castle where the dragon lived, but we didn't go in. Maybe when I go back with Cranky we can check it out.

The rest of our day was spent walking around Old Town shopping and hanging out on the main market square. It was a great day.

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Headed to the Airport

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sun, 18 May 2008 23:15:17 -0700

Just ate my last Euro breakfast. I'm so going to miss that coffee. ;-(

I have a wicked head cold. Fantastic.

Itinerary: Warsaw to Frankfurt, sit around for four hours, Frankfurt to Detroit (8ish hours), spend the night with college roomie (see you soon, Tracy!) and then off to PHX in the morning (4ish hour flight.

Then tomorrow afternoon, I have an interview with the leadership institute selection committee. I'm going to be in such great shape for that.

Not.

Have I mentioned my bunkmate snores? Last night she was snoring as if it were the last night she had to keep me from sleeping and was making the most of the opportunity. She needs to see a doctor, I sez.

It's been a great trip but I'm looking forward to seeing Mr. Wuv Wuv soon! And getting a full night's sleep! Yay!

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Last Stop on AmyH's Grand Tour

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sat, 17 May 2008 12:27:07 -0700

After a very long drive through the Polish countryside, we are in our last city - Warsaw. We haven't made it to the city center yet, but will do that tomorrow. We'll end our trip at a Chopin concert and then it's back to the States.

Our group has been great. I was telling my new friends that there's usually one person who is terribly obnoxious, but since I haven't noticed that person - maybe it's me. Ha!

It's hard to remember everything we saw and did since we began our trip. I can say it's been fun. I could have spent more time in Krakow. So Cranky - if you want to come here and do the salt mines, let me know!

If I had to sum it up, I would characterize the cities so far like this:

Budapest - the girl who is still gangly and growing, soon to shed the nerd glasses and become something beautiful. Approachable and friendly, but awkward.

Vienna - the supermodel who is polite and kind to you, but you know she is too glamorous to have you as a friend.

Prague - the popular girl who is friendly and bubbly to everyone, who is nice to you but she flits off before you can really get to know her.

Krakow - your best pal, the one around whom you are always comfortable and want to share beers.

Warsaw - we shall see.

That's my impression and my feeling. But then again, I'm used to traveling in developing countries and cities that haven't been glossed over or Westernized into generic places yet. Maybe that's why Poland has been appealing. I'm told they are 10 years behind the other formerly Communist countries because they were late in joining the EU. The towns look run down and you can really get a feel for what it was like and where they are going.

I almost wish I spent time here back in 1991 when I did the backpacker thing for that summer. These countries were two years out of the fall of Communism and I would have been able to see how they have changed. At the time, it was enough to visit Berlin and much of East Germany. I guess I didn't trust what kind of accomodations I would have found considering I was traveling alone and sleeping on trains. Maybe I was too chicken. But no sense in coulda, woulda, shouldas at this point in my life.

I'm a bit worn down from all the get ups and goes. I'm looking forward to being home, chilling with Mr. Elv and catching up with my world again.

For those of you getting postcards - I finally got around to mailing them this morning. I left them on the bus when we were in Prague and didn't see them for a few days until we left for Krakow.

I hope all is well and I look forward to catching up with everyone!

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Krakow

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Fri, 16 May 2008 08:27:32 -0700

At an internet cafe, MomH is waiting for me so I have to keep this short.

Poland = cheap, good beer.

Finally.

There's a couple on our tour not too much older than I so I have some beer hall buddies. We went to a famous one in Prague (U Flecku) for the 14% home brew. That must be in metric percents, because I had four and didn't get more than a slight buzz. And I KNOW I'm not that much of a drinker. Plus, I could stand upright the next day. Which is a good thing, but there's some false advertising going on.

Krakow is great. I wish we had more time here. So far it's my favorite place on the trip. It hasn't been overrun and turned into a Euro-Disney full of tourist schlock. Yet.

I feel a little guilty because MomH and I went shopping instead of the optional excursion to Auschwitz. I didn't think I could handle it anymore and MomH didn't want to go for the same reason. I've done Dachau and we went to a Holocost museum in Budapest that was powerful, so I think we're good.

But we did almost go on Crazy Mike's Communism Tour. If we had more time, we would have signed up to take a Trabant and check out the nearby suburb built just for the workers of the Lenin Works steel plant. That would have been cool. Instead, we sat out on the main square, listened to strolling musicians, watched the beautiful horse-drawn carriages go by and people watch.

And I had a great, cheap beer.

Ah, Krakow.

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Off to Prague!

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sun, 11 May 2008 23:41:08 -0700

Auf wiedersehen, Wien!

The opera was fantastic last night. I never thought I would care to sit through five hours of Wagner, but the story was great (Siegfried) and the music amazing. The time flew by.

We're having a great time.

Someone just asked me at breakfast what there was unique to see or do in Prague.

Beer.

Czech beer on tap.

I'm so excited.

Ciao!

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Ich herz Wien

nobody@vox.com(AmyH) — Sun, 11 May 2008 01:15:45 -0700

Here we are in Vienna, the city of chocolate and wine. And hangovers. Ugh. We went to a little town last night to partake in a Heurigen dinner, full of food, wine and song. Super fun but I'm moving reallllly slow today.

Anyhoo, MomH is waiting for me so we can start our day so I need to be boring and cut this short. Besides, my brain isn't terribly functional at the moment.

Headed to the opera tonight for some Wagner at the Vienna Opera House. Today will be some museum-ing and sitting at a cafe for some coffee and chocolate cake.

Life is good.

I hope all is well with everyone!

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